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Here’s a great post from LifeHacker comparing various tools for interior design, including Google Sketchup, FloorPlanner, SweetHome3D, DesignYourDorm, and others.

The Best Design Tools For Improving Your Home

It’s tough to figure out where you want things, or how it might look without that darn wall, if you don’t have any way to visualize it other than your two dimensional napkin sketch. Check out the post and try some of the tools – they’re free!

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Buying, selling or just changing apartments? Here’s a great idea for when you have to move.

These specially printed box tapes, available from UHaul, clearly mark and color-code where your boxes are supposed to go, and can help you remember which boxes have the stuff you need as soon as you arrive.

They come in one- to four-bedroom kits, and rolls are also available in “Fragile”, “Open First” “Storage” and “Office” rolls.

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. . . by ripping off in almost it’s entirety today’s post from Young House Love, which Sherry Petersik in turn got most of from “Evan the all-knowing homemade cleaner guy:”

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Clean Up Your Act: All Natural Homemade Cleaners

And now we’ll continue the cleaning chit-chat with this handy little homemade cleaner breakdown. When we talked about getting even greener and experimenting with homemade cleaners in year three of YHL, an expert in that very area offered up a few of his favorite formulas. And we jumped at the chance to learn how all natural and totally eco-friendly cleaning materials are easy and effective- and sometimes way cheaper than paying for the more toxic stuff that can hurt pets, kids, people in general and the planet at large. Here’s what Evan the all-knowing homemade cleaner guy passed along:

This has become an obsession for me. If you think of your home as a sanctuary you want it to be not only beautiful but safe for your health! Store bought chemicals and cleansers can not only be toxic, poisonous or cause other averse health effects (no wonder they have all those warnings and skull & crossbone images on them) but they can also be expensive, completely unregulated, bad for the environment and full of excess packaging that ends up in landfills every day. They often come with big bold warnings that say things like “danger”, “caution”, “corrosive”, “irritant”, and even “chronic health hazard” which by definition can mean anything from “chemicals that destroy tissue” (corrosive) to “causes sterility and birth defects” (chronic health hazard). And even those that just say “danger” or “caution” can be attached to warnings that say “may be fatal or cause blindness if swallowed” or “highly toxic, flammable, poisonous and corrosive.”

Well Evan, when you put it that way, the toxic store bought cleaners bearing those labels (which can commonly be found on everything from basic toilet bowl cleaners to oven and drain solutions) sound pretty terrible. Tell us more.

By contrast, some non-toxic and all natural ingredients like baking soda and vinegar are not only not corrosive, poisonous, or hazardous to your health in any way, they’re actually completely safe if ingested (after all they’re found in the kitchen and they’re 100% edible!).

• Baking Soda is a great naturally abrasive ingredient with mild alkaline properties, it’s also a natural deodorizer and stain remover, and it rinses easily, is completely non-toxic (no more dangers for kids and pets licking surfaces that you’ve cleaned) and it’s extremely affordable (you can grab a 12lb bag at Costco for next to nothing).
• Vinegar is an all natural and mild acid, it’s also a known disinfectant that can remove stains, sanitize, and it’s also completely non-toxic and inexpensive (you can also grab a giant jug of it at Costco for an extremely reasonable price). It should be noted that it shouldn’t be used on stone surfaces or acetate fabrics but there are many other natural cleaning methods that work for those surfaces.
• Hydrogen Peroxide is also non-toxic (learn more about it and it’s many uses here) and is known to be a natural bleaching agent with disinfectant and stain removing properties. It’s also extremely inexpensive (just $1 for three bottles at Walgreen’s).
  
• All Natural Tea Tree Oil And Grapefruit Oil (which have known antibacterial properties) And Lemon Juice (which naturally cuts grease and leaves a totally fresh scent) are also extremely helpful to have in your all-natural cleaning arsenal.
• Liquid Castile Soap (like Dr. Bronner’s, sold at Target, Trader Joe’s, etc) is a vegetable based soap as opposed to a petroleum based one, which makes it completely non-toxic so it can be used on your face and body but will also work well when it comes to cleaning your home. It’s not quite as inexpensive as baking soda or vinegar, but a large 32 oz container is just $8.99 at Trader Joe’s.

But how do you put them all together? Here are some of Evan’s favorite all-natural homemade cleaning formulas:

Surface Spray:

• 16 oz spray bottle
• 2 tsp. borax
• ¼ tsp. liquid castile soap (like Dr. Bronner’s)
  
• hot water

All Purpose Liquid Cleaner:

• 1 gal. hot water
• 1 tbsp. baking soda
• 2 tbsp. liquid soap (like Dr. Bronner’s)

All Purpose Abrasive Cleaner:

• liquid soap (like Dr. Bronner’s)
• 2 tbsp. baking soda
  

Mix to make a foamy paste.

Refrigerator Cleaner:

• 2 tbs. baking soda in 1 qt warm water

Wipe down inside and out and rinse with a clean wet cloth.

Oven Cleaner:

• Dampen with water
• Sprinkle liberally with baking soda
  

Leave 20 minutes, then scrub until clean.

Microwave Cleaner:

• ½ c. vinegar
• 2 c. water
  

Combine in microwave safe bowl, heat on high for 3-4 minutes, remove bowl and wipe down inside of microwave.

Dishwasher Detergent:

• 2 c. borax
• 2 c. baking soda
• 4 little packages of unsweetened lemon Kool-Aid (or generic)

Mix together and store. You can substitute ½ c. of citric acid for the Kool-Aid but it’s harder to find.

Gorgeously Green All-Purpose Spray:

• 32-ounce plastic spray bottle
• 2 cups water
• 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon pure castile soap (peppermint)
• 3/4 cup hydrogen peroxide
• 20 drops tea tree oil
• 20 drops of lavender essential oil

Fruit and Vegetable Wash:

• 1 cup water
• 1 cup white vinegar
• 1 tbsp. baking soda
• 20 drops grapefruit seed extract

Spray on produce, rinse after 5 minutes.

Fruit and Vegetable Wash #2:

• 1 cup water
• 1 tbsp. lemon juice
• 1 tbsp. baking soda

Spray on produce, wipe after 5 minutes.

Drain Cleaner:

• 1 c. baking soda first
• 1 c. white vinegar second
• 1 gallon boiling water

Allow to foam for 5 minutes before adding water.

Window, Glass and Chrome Cleaner:

• 5 parts water to 1 part white vinegar, OR
• 1 c. water, 1 c. vinegar, ½ tsp. castile soap (like Dr. Bronner’s)

Toilet Bowl Cleaners:

• Liquid castile soap (like Dr. Bronner’s)
  
• Baking soda or borax

Scrub with a toilet brush.

Tub And Tile Cleaner:

• Apply vinegar full-strength to a sponge and wipe
• Scour with baking soda

Soft Scrub for Fixtures:

• ½ c. baking soda
• Castile soap
• 10 drops of antibacterial essential oil (optional)

Add enough castile soap until you have a frosting like consistency. Scrub, then rinse with water.

Mildew/Germ Killer:

• 2 c. water
• 25 drops of tea tree oil
• 25 drops of lavender oil

Spray on tile and do not wipe off.

Mildew/Germ Killer 2:

• 16 oz spray bottle
• 1 part hydrogen peroxide
• 2 parts water

Spray, let sit. Rinse after 1 hour.

Wood Floor Cleaner:

• ¼ c. vinegar
• 1 gal. warm water

Mop or rag should be slightly damp for cleaning.

Linoleum Floor Cleaner:

• 1 c. vinegar
• 2 gal. warm water

Mop or rag can be fully wet for cleaning.

Carpet Stain Remover:

• 1 part borax
• 10 parts warm water

Combine in spray bottle. Spray on stain, wait 5 minutes, blot with clean rag.

Carpet Stain Remover:

• vinegar
• baking soda

Mix vinegar and baking soda into a paste. Gently work into stain with a toothbrush. Let dry then vacuum completely.

Carpet Deodorizer:

• Baking soda
• 10 drops of essential oil (optional)

Mix together then sprinkle generously on carpet, wait 15 minutes and vacuum.

All-Purpose Carpet Cleaner:

After vacuuming first,

• 1 c. white vinegar
• 3 c. boiling water

Blot mixture onto nap of rug with a wet rag, Dry and air thoroughly. Vacuum.

Air Freshener:

• 2 parts water
• 1 part rubbing alcohol
• Essential oil

Mix in spray bottle, don’t spray on silks or delicates. Experiment with how much oil to add, but start with 5 drops.

Air Freshener 2:

• 1 tsp. baking soda
• 1 tsp. vinegar or lemon juice
• 2 c. hot water

Mix in spray bottle, don’t spray on silks or delicates.

Dusting:

• Slightly dampened microfiber cloth

Furniture Polish:

• ½ tsp. olive oil
• ¼ c. vinegar or lemon juice

Mix in a glass jar. Dab a soft rag into the solution and wipe onto wood surfaces.

Scratches:

• 1 part lemon juice
• 1  part vegetable oil

Rub into the scratches and polish.

Rust Remover:

• Sprinkle area with salt
• Squeeze lime onto salt

Leave sit for 2-3 hours, then scrub w/ lime rind.

Metal Polish (copper and brass):

• 2 tbsp. salt

Add vinegar until you make a paste. Rub on metal with a clean rag. Wipe clean.

Powdered Laundry Detergent:

• 1 c. grated Fels Naptha soap
• ½ c. washing soda
• ½ c. borax

For light load, use 1 tablespoon. For heavy or soiled load, use 2 tablespoons.

Liquid Laundry Detergent:

• 3 pints water
• 1/3 bar Fels Naptha soap, grated
• ½ c. washing soda
• ½ c. borax
• 2 gallon bucket
• 1 quart hot water

Mix soap in saucepan with 3 pints of water. Heat on low until dissolved. Stir in soda and borax until thickened. Remove from heat. Add 1 quart hot water to bucket, then soap mixture, mix well. Fill rest of bucket with hot water, mix and let sit for 24 hours. Use ½ c. per laundry load.

Laundry Pre-treatment:

• ½ c. ammonia
• ½ c. white vinegar
• ¼ c. baking soda
• 2 tbsp. liquid soap or laundry detergent
• 2 quarts water

Mix in spray bottle. Spray spot.

Laundry Pre-treatment 2:

• 1 tsp. liquid laundry detergent
• 2 tbsp. ammonia
• 1 pt. warm water

Mix in spray bottle. Spray spot, let sit for 20 minutes.

Fabric Softener:

Add ½ – 1 c. vinegar to your softener dispenser

Bleach Alternative (Laundry):

• ¼ c. hydrogen peroxide

But wait, Evan has even more ideas to keep things green and clean around your casa:

Run your dishwasher late at night without a heat-dry setting and let things air dry overnight instead

Replace sponges with washable and reusable items like microfiber cloths and dishrags

Premix large batches of cleaning formulas so they’re always on hand and you’re never tempted to buy store stuff again

Set your washer to cold/cold for the most eco laundry you can get

Have people take off their shoes when they enter the house and wipe down the shower after each use (these preventative methods will really keep the house cleaner and cut down on your work)

And just because he’s such a pro, Evan even included his resources so you can learn more or see where he got his facts. Gotta love a guy who’s so thorough AND considerate: Consumer Reports, Nat’l Geographic, The Green Guide, Do It Green, Frugal Living, The Vinegar Institute, EarthEasy, Coyne and Kutzen “The Urban Homestead.”

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There, now I can feel better about not having tossed up any “green” posts to date. And as for Young House Love, read all about how their purchase of an old brick rancher in Richmond turned into Sherry’s full-time design/how-to/makeover job (plus part-time for John, a TJHSST grad) and got them featured month after month, it seems, in various home and design media. And their little dog, too . . .

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The other day, I was out with a first-time buyer client and blathering on about cherry trees, house styles and what have you when she stopped me cold with a very important question I couldn’t answer right away:

“In your experience, how much should we budget for maintenance?”

It’s a great question. And not easily answered. “That depends!” is an answer of sorts, and it’s true, but not helpful. I Googled “home maintenance costs” when I got home, and from the usual 2,456,871 hits, I managed to sort out a few useful nuggets.

So, Jennifer, here are a whole bunch of great sources you can use to try to budget for maintenance:

Life Expectancy of Home Components is a 2007 study from the National Association of Home Builders, sponsored by Bank of America. It has a lot of good information on you guessed it, components and systems of a typical home, occupied by a typical family with 1.8 children no doubt.

Among the findings of the study:

• Appliances. Of the major appliances in a home, gas ranges have the longest life expectancy, at 15 years. Dryers and refrigerators last about 13 years. Appliances with the shortest life spans are: trash compactors (six years), dishwashers (nine years) and microwave ovens (nine years). Some appliances don’t meet their life expectancy, however, because changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences may make newer products more desirable. Also, how long they last depends on how much they are used. [Duh.]
• Decks. The life span of these can vary significantly according to different climates, but they should be around for a good 20 years under ideal conditions.
• Faucets and Fixtures. Kitchen sinks made of modified acrylic will last 50 years, faucets will work properly for about 15. Bathroom shower enclosures can stick around for 50 years, although the shower doors could be in a serious state of decline in about 20 years. Showerheads last a lifetime, as will toilets, although tank components require some maintenance. The durability of whirlpool tubs ranges fairly widely – from 20 to 50 years – depending on use.
• Flooring. All natural wood flooring, and marble, slate and granite will last for 100 years if they are well taken care of. Vinyl floors will endure for up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years and carpet between eight and 10 years, depending on traffic and care.
• Garages. Garage doors last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts for 20.
• Home Technology. A built-in audio system will last 20 years, but security systems and heat and smoke detectors will only be around for five to 10. Wireless home networks and home automation systems are expected to work properly for more than 50 years.
• Heating, Venting and Air Conditioning. HVAC systems need proper and regular maintenance in order to work, but even when they are pampered most of their components last only 15 to 25 years. Furnaces live for 15 to 20 years, heat pumps for up 16 years, and air conditioning 10 to 15. Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years. Thermostats usually are replaced before the end of their 35-year life span because of technological improvements.
• Paints, Caulks and Adhesives. Interior and exterior paints can last for 15 years or longer, although home owners tend to repaint more often.
• Roofing. Slate, copper and clay/concrete roofs have a 50-year life expectancy; asphalt-shingle roofs, 20 years; fiber cement shingles, 25 years; and wood shakes, 30 years. However, the life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, proper building and design, material quality and adequate maintenance.
• Siding and Accessories. Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, engineered wood, both natural and manufactured stone and fiber cement will last as long as the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on the weather. Gutters made of copper can last 50 years, of aluminum, 20. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more; aluminum, 30 years.
• Windows and Skylights. Aluminum windows last between 15 and 20 years, while wooden windows can last upwards of 30 years.

Here is an interactive Remodeling Cost Estimator that generates an estimate of your remodeling project based on regional cost and pricing information. You enter your zip code and select from a variety of project types. The estimator then takes you through a series of questions about measurements, quality level of components, and so on, before delivering a dollar amount that in my estimation was on the high side. Your mileage may vary.

My friends at US Inspect give us US Inspect House Facts, a great resource for learning about all that stuff in your house you currently know nothing about, and how to maintain and even repair much of it yourself. It’s a terrific one-stop home information resource.

Lastly, I can strongly recommend a home warranty for those of you who want good control of your budget and relative peace of mind when it comes to major home repair costs. A home warranty is a service contract that covers the repair or replacement of many of the most frequently occurring breakdowns of home system components and appliances. I always arrange to get a home warranty for my buyers, and try to have my sellers offer one to reassure prospective buyers. It’s a no-brainer.

Most home warranties cover your home’s air conditioning system, central heating unit, ductwork, electrical system, ceiling fans, plumbing system, water heater, refrigerator, built-in dishwasher, built-in microwave, oven/range, garbage disposal, built-in trash compactor, washer, dryer and more.

How it works: the homeowner calls the warranty company, who arranges for the service call. The homeowner pays a service call fee – from $50 to $100 depending on the policy – but repairs and/or replacement (company’s decision) of the broken item are covered.

The most common complaints about these policies are that they don’t let you choose your own service company, and they occasionally question whether the problem was pre-existing (i.e., the appliance was broken before coverage was purchased). A recent report from a recognized home inspection service is usually accepted as proof to the contrary, if necessary.

There are several reputable home warranty companies who offer policies in Northern Virginia. Costs range from $350 to $500 per year, depending on coverage and deductibles. Try AHS – who has good home maintenance tips on the website; 2-10; or HMS.

If all else fails, try humor. I recommend Dave Barry – either The Taming of the Screw (hilarious illustrations by Jerry O’Brien) or Homes and Other Black Holes, illustrated by the late Jeff MacNelly.

It’s Good To Have A Friend In The Business®

If you would like to discuss real estate questions, sell or buy a home in Northern Virginia – including Alexandria, Annandale, Arlington, Burke, Centreville, Chantilly, Clifton, Fairfax, Fairfax Station, Falls Church, Kingstowne, Lorton, McLean, Reston, Springfield, or Vienna – contact Kim today.

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The last of three (3) posts coming up today, all related to some talented young friends of mine who are alumni of Thomas Jefferson High School for Science and Technology (TJ).

John Petersik (2000) and his lovely wife Sherry have developed a tremendous following for their remodeling/renovation work. The best place to catch up with what is happening for, by, and to them is at their primo website, This Young House.

For starters, they’re writing columns for regional and national publications such as R. Home Magazine and Do It Yourself Magazine; they’ve been featured on HGTV in Rate My Space; and they’ve done both a video tour in thenest.com and an 8-page cover spread for [thenest] Magazine.

Check out the terrific photos (1, 2, 3, 4) from the magazine spread and read their blog post on the process of the photo shoot – pretty funny.

John’s degree is in Communications and Sherry’s is in Fine Arts – and it’s clear that they are putting both to good use.

My connection to John? I carried his mellophone and toted water for him at Marching Band Camp and on numerous Marching Band Trips. How’s that for A-List, huh?

The other two posts are on Sam Willmott (2005) and Thao Nguyen (2002) – both performing in DC on Friday evening, April 17!

It’s Good To Have A Friend In The Business®

If you would like to discuss real estate questions, sell or buy a home in Northern Virginia – including Alexandria, Annandale, Arlington, Burke, Centreville, Chantilly, Clifton, Fairfax, Fairfax Station, Falls Church, Kingstowne, Lorton, McLean, Reston, Springfield, or Vienna – contact Kim today.

4.5% Listings with First-Class Service — Cash Back to My Buyers!

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Stuff. Most of us have waaaaay too much of it. If you know my wife, you will understand who keeps stuff organized in our house. She spent a good part of this weekend moving cookbooks, camera and various electronic gizmos from one cabinet to another, tossing things we haven’t been using, and getting some new things put away. It’s certainly not me – you should see my desk right now. I am not the best person to talk about decluttering, though it’s definitely a mantra of mine when talking to sellers! So that’s why I asked for professional help in writing this piece, and Aimee Saldivar obliged:

Do you feel bad throwing out every greeting card you receive? Or do you feel the need to save every toy your children owned to hand down to their children someday? Keeping these toys and remembrances can add up, especially if you don’t have the space to store them. If you save the toys’ original boxes or perhaps the toys that are slightly tattered, they’ll be of no value if your children decide to buy their kids new toys altogether. Get rid of them! One way to keep that precious toy close to your heart is to take a picture of it and create a digital album for you and your children to cherish tomorrow. Those pictures would make a great hardback album for a holiday gift, or can be used to create a scrapbook. It will not only take up less room, be cost effective and environmentally friendly, but it will allow more room for you to use today.

I recently finished a book by Peter Walsh, professional organizer and motivational speaker, called “It’s All Too Much: An Easy Plan For Living a Richer Life With Less Stuff.” He makes some great points about happiness: more material things don’t really measure success, having more possessions may be more suffocating than liberating, and the stuff we own ends up owning us. When we feel like we have too much stuff, we buy more containers; but in reality we aren’t cleaning out clutter, we’re just storing it away. Eventually this will build up and take over our space.

We have more winter ahead of us, but it’s a great time to start planning our organization. Here are few ideas to get you started without being overwhelmed by the task:

1. One room at a time. Focus on a room rather than your entire home. A smaller goal cuts down your anxiety and helps you stay focused. Prioritize each room according to either your budget or the time you have to spend. This will help you plan your project more effectively and will keep you on track to organizational success.
2. Think about what you want to achieve out of that room. If you’re planning to put your home on the market, you may want to consult a professional stager or organizer to create a “punch list.” An extra set of eyes can’t hurt, and they know creative ways to minimize clutter and maximize your sale price without going overboard. If you’re looking simply to organize, store away those keepsakes into one box you can bring out when you want to reflect, and keep the room livable without feeling cramped and cluttered.
3. TIP:  In today’s economy, second-hand and consignment stores are becoming the hot place to shop. If have you some great items that you feel guilty about giving away, consignment shops are a great way to get rid of them without having to host a yard sale or post them in the classifieds online. Remember, one man’s junk can be another man’s treasure – at less than half the price! [Followup tip from Kim:  Drop off your stuff and drive away quickly, or you will come home with more than you took in!]
4. If you haven’t used in the last year – GET RID OF IT! Some things we own may be seasonal items, which is okay; however, if you’re still thinking that the one item you’re saving may go back in style, dump it. If it comes back someday, there will plenty of options to choose from. Many times we get so wrapped up in how much we paid or how much we saved on a particular item when, in reality, it was probably an impulse buy at the time. We may also keep something “in case we need it.” Unless you are talking about fire extinguishers and the like, if we haven’t used it in a year, then we don’t need it, and we’ve probably forgotten about it.
5. TIP:  Getting rid of dust collectors such as books, lampshades and dried flowers can help alleviate dust for people with allergies. You may continue to dust the shelves, but not the books on the shelves or the dried flowers you are saving from a special occasion. It rarely occurs to people that dust build-up on these items is overlooked and can make matters worse for people with allergies. Once you finish reading a book, trade it for a new one or donate it. Donating books to your local public library is a very simple process and is a tax write-off for you next year.
6. The more you can eliminate, the better. Linen closets become an emotional trap for us since they house blankets and linens we don’t want to part with. This is usually where Grandma’s hankies and table linens end up. Instead, think about storing them in a dedicated keepsake box from Grandma, or framing and hanging them in a guest bedroom (if they go with the theme). Once you make room for the linens you actually use, you won’t have to shuffle through mismatched sheet sets and torn towels. If you have different sizes of sheet sets for different rooms and/or family members, a great way to keep them organized  is to color-code them. Buy a different color of two-inch grosgrain ribbon rolls for each size or family member to keep the sheet sets together for “grab and go.” It adds a nice touch to your linen closet, too. NOTE:  When you have your home on the market, prospective buyers look through everything, especially closets – they’ll be impressed.
7. A great way to pay tribute to a loved one after they have passed would be to dedicate a space or a room for their items. If they were in the military, one way to pay tribute would be to frame their military medals along with their uniform jacket. Or if you are having a hard time parting with their collected items, perhaps you could sell them and donate the money in their memory to an organization or educational institution they would have appreciated.

Many thanks to Aimee Saldivar, professional organizer and home stager. She also offers special occasion set-up such as table setting and arranging. You can find before and after pictures on Facebook by looking up Ladybug Staging and Organization.

If you mention this article, Aimee will provide a free consultation when you sign up for a service. Plan ahead and call today for an estimate at 703-856-3404 or email ladybugstaging@gmail.com.

If you would like to discuss real estate questions, sell or buy a home in Northern Virginia – including Alexandria, Annandale, Arlington, Burke, Centreville, Chantilly, Clifton, Fairfax, Fairfax Station, Falls Church, Kingstowne, Lorton, McLean, Reston, Springfield, or Vienna – contact Kim today.

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Spring is on the way, and it will probably bring a fair amount of rain. Combine that with melting snow – assuming we get any – and we might start to think about drainage. Some of us cringe at the sight of rainfall, looking outside to see half of the yard engulfed in water. Others relish the fact that we live uphill from the neighbors or have handled the run-off with no problem in previous years. Regardless of which scenario in which you find yourself, drainage control is a major priority in every landscape.

Proper drainage control reduces or eliminates excess water in your landscape, which can help to protect your home from water damage and eliminate mosquitoes and other bugs that breed in the still water in your yard. There are several different options that can help to solve drainage problems. The difficult part for the homeowner is choosing the solution that will work best for their unique landscape. Here is a quick overview of several available options:

Dry Creekbed

POSITIVE GRADING
Positive grading uses the existing land contour or a manipulated version of existing contour to direct the water to a specific location. This is one of the most helpful solutions. However, manipulation of the site may require it to be accompanied by one of the other solution types.

CREEKBEDS AND SWALES
Creekbeds and swales are a more recent solution to correcting drainage problems. They’re filled with various-sized stones, and a few large boulders are added for additional aesthetics. Water is allowed to flow through creekbeds and swales, helping to control flooding and erosion.

PIPING

French Drain

Piping is typically used with downspouts or in “French drains” (also known as “freedom drains” during the W administration). This solution takes the water from a specific problem area and pushes it through a pipe to another location. At the new location, either positive grading takes over to disperse the water, or a collection area is developed to handle the water (see Sustainable Solutions).

Sustainable System

SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS
Sustainable solutions are the up-and-coming answer in drainage control. They reduce the flow of water to storm drains from homes and businesses. Typically, these solutions work well in locations where water can be collected (and sometimes filtered) to be used for additional purposes throughout the landscape. Sustainable solutions not only reduce or eliminate excess water in your yard, but also benefit the environment by preventing pollutants from entering our watersheds.

Remember, each landscape is unique and may require a different solution or a combination of solutions to properly correct drainage problems.

Many thanks to Jeff Findley, our Landscape Designer from Professional Grounds

If you would like to discuss real estate questions, sell or buy a home in Northern Virginia – including Alexandria, Annandale, Arlington, Burke, Centreville, Chantilly, Clifton, Fairfax, Fairfax Station, Falls Church, Kingstowne, Lorton, McLean, Reston, Springfield, or Vienna – contact Kim today.

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If you are one of the fortunate folks who own a second home or rental property, and were planning to take fullest advantage of the capital gains tax exclusion on sale of your primary residence, the Housing Assistance Act of 2008 included a change that could impact your tax on the gains.

The existing law excludes $250,000 of the profit from taxation if you’re single, and $500,000 if you’re married, when you sell a primary residence you’ve lived in for at least two of the last five years. (Your primary residence is the place you live; the address you use on your drivers license; where you’re registered to vote, etc.) If, for example, you bought a property in Ocean City, rented it out for several years, and then moved into it as your primary residence for a couple of years, your free-of-tax profit when you sell it under the existing law would have included any increase in value during the whole time you owned it (up to the limits).

The new law modifies that rule – it limits your exclusion (your free-of-tax profit) to the time the home was your primary residence. You must prorate the total profit between the periods the property was not your primary residence, and the periods that it was.

Only the period after January 1, 2009 is relevant – the period it was not your primary residence before that date won’t be counted in determining the “non-residence” time. For example, if you bought a second home on January 1, 2007, rented or vacationed in it for three years, moved into it on January 1, 2010, then lived in it for 3 years until you sold it, you would have owned the home for 6 years, during which it was a rental or vacation home for 3 years, and your residence for 3 years. However, since only one of the rental years was after January 1, 2009, the numerator in your calculation would be one (the number of non-residence years after January 1, 2009), and your denominator would be 6 (the total number of years you owned the property). In other words, 1/6 of your gain would be taxable; if your total profit was $150,000, then $25,000 of that would be taxable. Under the previous law you would have been able to avoid tax on up to $250,000 ($500,000 if married).

The new law only applies where the period when the property was a rental or vacation home before it became your primary residence. It does not apply if it was your primary residence first, and then became a rental or vacation property. In this case, you could be out of the home for up to three years before you would lose the $250,000/$500,000 exclusion.

If you had been planning to move into your current rental or vacation property, you should consider doing it as soon as possible to minimize your eventual taxes.

I’m not a tax professional – consult yours to verify this and explain it further.

If you would like to discuss real estate questions, sell or buy a home in Northern Virginia – including Alexandria, Annandale, Arlington, Burke, Centreville, Chantilly, Clifton, Fairfax, Fairfax Station, Falls Church, Kingstowne, Lorton, McLean, Reston, Springfield, or Vienna – contact Kim today.

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